This is done with a wire called the grounding electrode conductor. It's important to factor its route in when picking a spot for the ground rod. Make sure the grounding cable can easily be routed to the panel from where the grounding rod is positioned.
Avoid locations where the ground is mostly rock or heavily compacted. Because you have to drive the rod 8 feet 2. While you wont always be able to avoid rocks or know they are there, avoid picking an area that you know is full of rocks. Locate any wires or pipes in the path of the ground rod.
Once you have picked a spot to put your ground rod, you need to make sure you will not damage anything in the ground when you install it. In many countries, there are hotlines you can call to have your utilities located free of charge. In the US, for example, there is a national hotline that you can call in order to notify your utilities that you need a locator.
If there is no locating hotline in your areas, you can call the utility companies directly that serve the building and ask them to locate their underground lines. Part 2. Purchase an approved grounding rod. Grounding rods need to made of specific conductive metals and they need to made to a specific length and width. Because of this, it's best to buy a rod that is specifically made for this use. Buying a listed rod, meaning it has been verified by a certification group, will ensure that your grounding rod is the correct size and material.
Most home improvement and hardware stores stock approved grounding rods. In the US, ground rods need to be at least 8 feet 2. The mark allows an electrical inspector to immediately know you have used a proper rod. Start digging a hole with a shovel or post-hole digger. Because a ground rod is so long, it can be hard to get leverage on the top of it when you start installing it.
To get the top down to a more manageable level, dig a hole 2—4 feet 0. By putting the end of the ground rod in the hole, it will be easier to start hammering the top of the rod. If you don't want to dig a hole or you can't for some reason, you will need a ladder or step stool to get up high enough to start pounding in the top of the ground rod.
Drive the rod into the ground. Using your hammer, drill, or driving tool, gradually drive the rod vertically into the ground. You need to drive your rod all the way into the ground. The electrical code states that it must have 8 feet 2. If you can find someone to take turns driving the rod, it will make for a much easier job.
Some electrical inspectors will allow you to leave 1—2 inches 2. However, some want the entire thing covered in earth. Part 3. Pull the grounding electrode conductor to the grounding rod. Once the grounding rod has been driven into the ground, you need to connect it to the electrical system of the building.
Pull the grounding electrode conductor up to the top of the grounding rod, making sure it is long enough to make a permanent connection between them. This will ensure that if it gets hit or pushed on, it won't get dislodged from the grounding rod. Clamp the grounding electrode conductor to the grounding rod. There are specific clamps that are used to connect grounding electrode conductors to grounding rods. You will need 1 clamp.
Put the end of the conductor and the end of the rod inside of the clamp and turn the screw on the clamp to press them together securely. Connect the grounding electrode conductor to the ground bus. The ground bus is where all the ground and neutral wires are attached in the electrical panel.
To make the connection, slide the end of the grounding electrode conductor through one of the holes in the bus and tighten the screw in that hole until it holds the wire very tightly. These 2 bars are then connected with a main bonding jumper. If this is the case, you can attach your grounding electrode conductor wherever it fits on either bus. Make sure that your fingers, tools, and the grounding electrode conductor don't make contact with the energized bars in the panel, which are located behind the circuit breakers.
If you are unsure about how to make this connection safely, hire an electrician to do the work. Ricardo Mitchell. Graph and ground rods are made of copper, because it's durable and it's a strong conductor. Not Helpful 12 Helpful 6. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. It's important for all electrical systems to be grounded. Grounding can prevent fires and electrical injuries by giving uncontrolled electricity a route to the ground other than through property or people.
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The cable connector joins the metal sheathing or conduit to the box to provide the path for ground. Where plastic boxes are used, a ground wire typically connects to the receptacle only.
Here, where wiring runs through this box to another box, a grounding pigtail connects to the device. Many older ceiling fixtures are not grounded. Recent codes, however, call for grounding. Connect the fixture's ground lead usually a stranded wire to the strap on a metal box or to a ground wire. Most older switches are not grounded; many switches do not even have a ground screw. Recent codes call for switches to be grounded.
Replace an older switch with a newer one that has a ground screw and connect it to a ground wire. Most of your home's receptacles should be grounded. But if they're not, learn how to add this safety feature four different ways. January 26, Save Pin FB More. Comments Add Comment.
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