With high quality fuel the engine can accept a more aggressive timing map, which makes more power. Conforti modifies the maps for fuel, timing, VANOS, throttle response, rev limit, top speed limit, and others. The result is more power and a smoother engine while still retaining all of the factory safeguards.
There are other tuners on the market that might make more power on the dyno at full throttle but are not as refined or don't have the smoothness or torque of the Shark Injector. And they don't have the Shark's ease of install.
A high quality battery charger is required during the install to provide sufficient electrical power for the ECU. The ECU is very sensitive to voltage and will shut down if volts drop below a minimum threshold. The battery charger keeps the voltage where it needs to be for programming. Trickle chargers and battery maintainers will not provide enough voltage unless they can be manually programmed at 10amps or higher.
For US models only. For non-US cars, see our Epic Motorsports software. One will say "insert image". Click on that, and a box pops up where you write the address where the picture is located.
Paste the address there, and bingo, the picture shows up. I never found out how to upload pics from your hard drive directly to the forum. Now on the topic of those green caps on the fuel injector points, what are they for? Is there a way I can get these things seperatley?
Would RC Engineering have these, say, if I sent my injectors out for rebuilding? The new injectors are bucks a peice, and I'm not sure if I could get a used set with the plastic caps.
If you don't have the pictures hosted somewhere you can do them as an attachment. When you reply, "Go Advanced", then there will be a "Manage Attachments" link at the bottom. You click on that and there will be a pop-up box.
Then you can browse on your computer for the picture. I've got over 4MB of total attachments floating around BF. Ok, so here are pics i hope of the bracket you have to make. I actually bought this at home depot. I now have a simpson strong tie holding together their 10k engine. LOL anyway, any piece of steel about 11 inches long by 1. I dont have a pic of this and its going to be a little hard to explain which one. I found it easy to leave all the stuff, ICV, crank vent bolted to the OBDII bracket the one that you just modified and leave it sit there in the engine bay while I measured, drilled, and checked fitment of the new bracket you will be making.
Im in a hurry so Ill take pictures of the TB gasket cutter and front wire plugged into my fuel rail later this afternoon. Nice work! Hoping someone can answer this If one were to install the M50 on an AASC'd car, could we just omit the cyclone separator alltogether and save from all that large diameter plumbing mess?
I did ask this question to people at AA a while ago, but IIRC their response was a bit vague, probably because this is an emissions controlled device and they cannot tell someone to remove it. For that part of the install I plugged the oil drain hose with a bolt - I held it in place with a small O-clamp.
In place of the oil separator I have a crankcase ventilator breather tank. It's a 3" wide by 5" tall pill shaped metal canister with a round air filter mounted on top.
Allows for air to move into the crank-case without oil going out where the air comes in! Mine is a Moroso also. Hey bro, what happened to the on that fuel fail harness plug? I hope yours come out as good. EEEEEeeeee36, you have a 97 , right? I couldn't find that plug in your '97 diagram. I looked in my Bentley last night too but I couldn't find it. For all I know it could have dropped somewhere down by the short block and is hiding from me : Or even worse.. I wonder were yours are?
I found some green peices even before knowing where they came from. I got all of it out before bolting down the mani, but I'm afraid one more cap may have fallen off :mad Anyways, a vacumm might work for those who don't want to take the intake off again. I'm not too woried about a small peice of plastic in the chamber, it won't scratch metal, and should get tossed out the exhaust fairly easily. I wonder what would happen to the cat? Anyways I talked to some people here at work who work in fuel systems, they confirmed it to be just a cap to hold on the oring and "protect" the tip during install, etc.
They said the weird complex design is of no importance, and gave me 7 more regular looking caps. I still think the o-rings will get sucked through the manifold if you run no caps. So now I'm working on those brackets for the fuel rail. TB gasket slicer works great! I used some washers between the blade andclamped it to a workbench. I have two identical rings now.
I've heard the hype of throwing cams, software, and the M50 manifold on your M52 to miraculously reach hp Can anyone attest to feeling a noticable difference by installing just the M50 manifold? I think I am going to try the double fool the computer and install a home made 3.
I've seen dyno charts with this setup and the guy got or so with a descent AFR. I lost 20ft lbs of tq in the low end, but gained 5whp in the high end.
The biggest difference is my car doesn't suffocate above rpm - I still pull all the way to the rev limiter.. Your car will not create more power with this mod, it is a stepping stone to more power with software.
I am having a custom tune done right now and then I'll dyno it again in February to see the true gain of the M50 manifold; the biggest thing I am looking foward too is a rpm redline and peak power at about Cams next - all in all when done I should be at about chp - whp.
PS - keep in mind I have a i. No vacuum leaks, no check engine lights. And the entire kit is completely reversible. Turner Motorsport has dealt with the problems from other kits and this adapter block is by far the best solution. The base price of this kit does not include the M50 manifold. You can pick up a used manifold from a E36 i or a M3 3.
You can find them in local junk or scrap yards, online at Craigslist or eBay, or from various forums. If you would rather not deal with the potential pitfalls of a used part, we can offer a new Original BMW manifold to go with the adapter. While expensive, the new manifold is guaranteed to be in perfect condition with no cracks, warping, or foreign objects hidden inside.
A new factory BMW manifold can be added to your order by selecting the option above. To best maximize the horsepower gains of this modification, you should be using the M50 manifold with bigger cams, HFM, injectors, and software. We have found this combination of upgrades and software to yield the best results for producing top-end power.
Note: using the M50 manifold shifts the power band higher in the RPM range. Presently, we do not have software tuned for only the M50 manifold without cams or the HFM upgrade. Check our website again for future product releases. We currently offer custom mapped Shark Injectors for these packages: E36 M3 - 3. Optional fuel rail cover. We can correctly modify the stock M52 fuel rail cover for you to complete the factory appearance.
Fits your Change Vehicle. Change Vehicle. All warranties, product application, fitment, and performance are the responsibility of Turner Motorsport.
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